Tuscany & Umbria: Rustic Beauty in the Italian Heartland   4 comments

Tuscany & Umbria:  Rustic Beauty in the Italian Heartland

Lucca, Pisa, Carrara, Florence, San Galgano, Chiusdino, Collie de Val’Elsa, La Piazza, Monteriggioni, Siena, San Quirico d’Orcia, Val d’Orcia, Pienza, Abbadia, Montepulciano, Pitigliano, Sovana, Isola Maggiore, Assisi, Trevi, Norcia, Pettino, Bomarzo, Boccea

March 16 – 30, 2015


We booked “Tuscany & Umbria:  Rustic Beauty in the Italian Heartland” with Overseas Adventure Travel.  This two week adventure was our 34th trip with this company.  There was a very enjoyable group of fifteen travelers in our adventure through Tuscany & Umbria.  (This map of our itinerary is copied from the Overseas Adventure web site.)  Our wonderful tour director, Giovanna is pictured below.  She was a joy and made everyday of the trip a remarkable experience. 

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The more Jim & I travel, the less we like huge cities and the more we like small towns.  One of my favorite things in travel is seeing medieval hill top towns and cities and I’m always wishing I could see more.  This trip certainly fulfilled my wish list.  Among other things we visited lots and lots of hill town fortified towns.  Another highlight was the fact that we stayed in quaint little hotels in quaint little towns. 


Why do I love Tuscany?  I love experiencing the gently rolling stunningly beautiful hills, seeing the amazingly preserved medieval hill towns, and viewing the history of the medieval and Renaissance periods.  It is a joy to encounter the masterpieces of painters, sculptors and architects in the museums, galleries, churches and piazzas all across the region of Tuscany.  This is why I love Tuscany.  What is not to love about Umbria?  Nothing.  Umbria is second only to Tuscany in terms of historical hills towns and beautiful countryside.  The Umbria region is known for its landscapes, traditions, history and artistic legacy.  It is often called Italy’s green heart which is characterized by hills and historical towns.  The first part of our trip included the area of Tuscany with the latter part of the trip being in Umbria.  Loved all of it!  

SmileSave MoneyMoney:  If you decide you’d like to go on this or any Overseas Adventure or Grand Circle Travel trip, and you are a first time traveler with them, they will give you $100 off any trip if you mention the name of my travel blog and my customer #000561413.  New travelers instantly receive $100 off the cost of the trip, and I will receive $100 when you depart on your trip. 


Lucca, Italy:  It was founded by the Etruscans and became a Roman colony in 180 BC.  Lucca’s medieval city walls are of the best preserved ramparts in Italy.   They were built between 1544 and 1650,  They were erected to defend against Pisa and then Florence.  After they lost their military importance they were used for racing cars in the 20th century.  The walls remain intact, they are about 40 ft. above ground, fairly wide and extend almost 3 miles.  Today, they are a pedestrian promenade and a popular place to ride bicycles.  That is exactly what we did, we completed a full loop around the old city on our rented bicycles.


San Michele in Foro Church:  It’s located in the large square that was originally the Roman Forum in the center of Lucca.  Construction began in 1063.  It’s Roman a Catholic Cathedral dedicated to Saint Martin.  The columns of the façade are different.  The façade features busts of important men of the age rather than mythological or biblical people. 


Puccini House Museum & another pretty Piazza:  Puccini, the famous opera composer, was born in Lucca.  The second photo is one of Lucca’s many pretty piazzas. 


Lucca Cathedral:  It’s a Roman Catholic Cathedral dedicated to Saint Martin.  Construction was begun in 1063.


Piazza dell’Anfiteatro:  This oval shaped piazza, was the site of a Roman amphitheater.  Buildings and houses were built around the arena during the middle ages.  It was time for a coffee break in the cute piazza.


San Frediano Church:  The church was originally built in the 6th century, and remodeled in the 12th century.  The façade is decorated with 13th century Byzantine-style mosaic. 


Our quaint little hotel within the walls of Lucca, “San Luca Palace Hotel.”  We stayed here three nights.


Pisa, Italy:  Several in our group took a 40 minute local bus ride to Pisa to explore the town famous for what?  Yes, yes, the leaning Tower of Pisa.  It’s leaning 3.9 degrees off the vertical and was listing when it was unveiled in 1372.  The leaning tower is a USESCO World Heritage Site.  Let’s not forget to notice the Duomo with its striking tiered exterior which was consecrated in 1118.   In the foreground is The Baptistry of St. John.  Construction began in 1152.  It is the largest Baptistry in Italy and has amazing acoustics. 

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Carrara Marble Quarries:  We boarded 4-wheel-drive vehicles and headed up the slopes of the Apuan Alps for a visit to the famous Carrara marble quarries.  Our quarry tour included explanation of both ancient and modern excavation methods, riding on narrow trails & meeting work trucks, driving right through the mining areas and seeing where Michelangelo selected the block of white marble to sculpt his David.  


We drove through three quarries.  This is the quarry where Michelangelo selected the block of white marble to sculpt his famous David.


Florence:  The birthplace of the Renaissance!  The historic city center of Florence is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  On this particular tour we began with one of the city’s lesser known gems, San Minato al Monte, a basilica that tops one the the highest points in the city.


From San Minato al Monte, we had a good overlook of the city of Florence, then we walked down through the gardens to the city center. 


Ponte Vecchio:  Until 1218 this was the only bridge that crossed the Arno River.  The bridge was rebuilt in 1565 during the reign of the Medici family when they wanted a route which would connect them directly between Uffizi and the Palazzo Pitti on the other side of the River, without even stepping foot outside.  So the covered corridor across the bridge was constructed on top of the bridge stores.  The bridge survived WWII when the German’s destroyed all of the city’s bridges except this one. 


Palazzo Vecchio & Piazza della Signoria:  The Romanesque fort-like palace was built in 1293.  In front of the building stands Michelangelo’s David together with Bandinelli’s Hercules and  Cacus.  The Piazza della Signoria is a beautiful square with lots and lots of fantastic artwork. 


Jim & I definitely had an Italian looking lunch at on outdoor café in Florence.  I would like to mention that this one dish was for both of us, a shared order dish. 


Villa Sabolini:  We packed up and left Lucca and our next hotel for three nights was in the Chianti countryside at the Villa Sabolini Hotel.  It was an enjoyable place.


Looking out our hotel window.


Chapel of Montesiepi:  On a hilltop overlooking a lovely valley sits the chapel of Montesiepi, which hosts the tomb of San Galgano.  In this chapel is the legendary sword of Saint Galgano embedded in a rock. According to tradition, in 1181 a man tried to remove the sword from the rock.  His arms were torn off by a wolf and put in this red box.



Abbey of San Galgano:  We left the chapel and hiked down the hillside and through Tuscan fields to find the Abbey of San Galgano.  Today the 13th-century Abbey church stands as majestic ruins in the countryside.  


The Abbey of San Galgano was built in the 13th century.  At the end of the 18th century the bell tower collapsed destroying a great part of the roof of the church.  The “ceiling” of sky makes the structure more striking.  While in the church our group sang “Amazing Grace.” 


Chiusdino:  A beautiful fortified hill town with the a population of approximately 1,900.


The restaurant where we had lunch.


Colle di Val D’Elsa:  The oldest part of the city is the “colle alta”, the higher part which has a well preserved medieval center.  We visited the old walled city.


We went for a fun hike through the Tuscan Hills.  It was part of the old Pilgrimage Road that eventually led to San Galgano (where we had visited earlier in the day).  We ended our little hike at our hotel, which used to be a hospital, and the pilgrims could seek sanctuary there.  Today it is a nice little hotel in the beautiful countryside of Tuscany.


In the first photo, our countryside tiny town with little hotel are visible in the distance.  On the right side of the same picture is our little “hiking” group.  Oops, I must have been behind!  The tiny town was as cute as it could be.  Last photo is the entrance gate to our hotel, “Villa Sabolini.” 


Pruneti Olive Oil Mill:  Have you ever done an olive oil tasting.  Now we have.  Much the same as wine tasting.  It was interesting seeing the process of producing extra virgin olive oil.  In the tasting, we went from the less expensive, less robust to the most expensive and perfect “everything” olive oil.  It is true the Italians used “extra virgin” olive oil in and on most everything. 

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Photos out the bus window of the pretty Chianti countryside.  We drove to a farm near La Piazza.  We had a most enjoyable afternoon at the “Masseto farmhouse”.  It is part of the Italian Agriturismo farmhouse of neat places one can book and stay in the Italian countryside. 

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Azienda Agricola Masseto, La Piazza:  Their website is (masseto.it) and I quote the following:  “They have maintained the traditions of these Chianti vineyards and olive groves for four centuries.  The buildings are the main house, and two farm houses which were formerly the homes of the share farmer families who lived in the land they cultivated.  Following the decline of share farming practices, the farmhouses fell into a period of disuse until the concept of agritourism was introduced and brought these beautiful buildings back to life. 

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We helped prepare a delicious lunch in the beautiful farmhouse.


Some people (won’t mention names) look like they are eating instead of helping cook.


One last look at the scenery and the dog wanting to play before we leave the farmhouse.


Monteriggioni:  It’s a small medieval walled town.  The town withstood conflicts between Siena and Florence in the Middle Ages.  The walls built between 1213 & 1219, total a length of about 2,000 ft. and follow the natural contours of the hill.  We walked along the top of the well preserved walls.  Loved the little town.


You couldn’t go all the way around on the walls.  First one end, then walk through the tiny town, then you can walk on the walls at the other end.


Siena:  Siena is said to be one of Italy’s loveliest medieval cities, and one of the most popular destinations for travelers to Tuscany.   The historic center of Siena is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Siena is built on three hills, surrounded by well preserved walls, and is filled with Gothic architecture.

Siena has one of the world’s most unique piazzas….Piazza del Campo which is shaped like a shell with scalloped edges.  The twice a year horse race on July 2 & Aug. 16 takes place here.  It is called Palio de Siena.  During this special occasion, the main square in Siena, the Piazza del Campo, is prepared for the race as the ring around the square is covered with tuff clay.  It is a huge, popular event.  This is the piazza where the horse races are held.  Can you imagine the horses going ‘round & round’ the outer edges? 


Contrade:  Siena has a unique districting system.  Siena’s seventeen districts, or Contrade, were originally divided by the city’s buildings and their owners, rather than by roads or other geographical markers.  Each is named after an animal or symbol.  Every year each Contrade competes in the famous horse race, the Palio.  We met with members of the “Elephant Contrade.”  They have an awesome meeting hall, church and museum. 


Siena Cathedral:  A medieval church which was originally designed and completed between 1215 and 1263.  In my opinion it is a “must-see.”  The exterior and interiors are decorated in white and greenish-black marble in alternating stripes.  You need to purchase tickets to get in. 


Siena Cathedral Interior:  It is an impressive and beautiful church.  You hardly know where to look first.  My eyes were first drawn to the white/black marble striped columns.  However, perhaps the most impressive and beautiful of the treasures the cathedral hold are on the floor,  the 56 etched and inlaid marble panels were designed by 40 leading artists between 1369 and 1547.


The Piccolomini Library:  Adjoining the cathedral is this beautiful library.  It contains very colorful and stunning frescoes which were painted by Pinturicchio between 1502 and 1507. 


A few photos as we strolled around Siena:


San Quirico d’Orcia:  We stopped at this cute hillside town for a coffee break.  Had to share a few pictures.


Val d’Orcia:  A region which extends from south of Siena to Pienza.  It is characterized by gentle hills, gullies and picturesque towns and villages.  This area is on the list of UNESCO world heritage sites.


Pienza: Our next three nights lodging was in the delightful little town of Pienza.  Pope Pius II was born here in 1405, and in 1458 he had the entire village rebuilt as an ideal Renaissance town.  It was intended as a retreat from Rome.  He renamed the village Pienza (Pius).  The old town is a UNESCO World Heritiage Site.  Loved this village!

These photos are taken of our hotel and from our terrace at the Piccolo Hotel La Valle.  The breakfast room and terrace of the little hotel all overlooked the beautiful valley of Val D’Orcia, as mentioned above.  


Jim & I walked along a terrace of the town and the views of Val D’Orcia were outstanding:


The Duomo:  Dominates the center of the main piazza has a façade that is one of the earliest designed in the Renaissance manner. 


Various photos around this fascinating village of Pienza: 


A fun evening of pizza in Pienza, Italy:


Villa Sant’ Anna Winery, Abbadia, Italy:  (villasantanna.it)  For about 200 years the family of Simona Ruggeri Fabroni has owned this property.  It is located on the hills around the town of Montepulciano and is renowned for its fine wines. We toured the wine cellars, learned the steps of producing wine, and then enjoyed lunch and wine tasting around dining tables in the beautifully decorated tasting room. 

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Montepulciano:  Standing high atop a hill in southern Tuscany is this medieval town of beauty and well worth visiting.  A walk through Montepulciano provides one stunning view after another, from beautiful landmarks to the outstanding views of the surrounding countryside.


Pitigliano:  Pitigliano and this area was inhabited in Etruscan times.  The first written mention of Pitigliano is in 1061.  Today,it is a well preserved old town perched high on a ledge overlooking two rivers.   It has a rich Jewish heritage.  Jews began settling in Pitigliano in the 15th century.    During WWII, the town’s few remaining Jews escaped the Nazis with the aid of their mostly Catholic neighbors. 


And the rains came to Pitigliano.


The parts of the ancient Jewish Quarter of Pitigliano open to visitors includes a small museum,  ritual baths, dye works, the Kosher butchering area, bread ovens, and the restored synagogue from 1598.


The Etruscan Necropolis of Sovana:  The Etruscan’s were ancient people of central Italy. whose civilizations flourished from about 700-400 B.C.  They were subsequently dominated and absorbed by the Romans.  This Etruscan necropolis is noteworthy for the many different types of tombs it contains. 


Ildebranda Tomb:  Discovered in 1924, most important tomb in the necropolis is the “Ildebranda Tomb” dating from the 3rd-2nd century BC.  The tomb, which has the form of a temple, is dug in the tufa and is finely decorated.


Vie Cave of Sovana:  This Etruscan cave road connects between Sorano and Pitigliano.  Origninally used as roads to reach areas of burial, but became the roads of communication.


We bid farewell to Tuscany and turned our eyes toward Umbria on this day.  Considered the green heart of Italy, Umbria is rich with agriculture, olive oil making and verdant forests.  We drove to Lake Trasimeno which is one of the biggest lakes of Italy at 50 square miles. 

Isola Maggiore:  We boarded a small boat to go to Isola Maggiore which is a tranquil island in the middle of the lake.  It used to be a bustling fishing village centuries, but is now home to just 17 permanent residents.  There is a church and cemetery on top of the hill.  There is a castle on the hillside but it has fallen into disrepair and it sealed off tight behind a gate.  

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We enjoyed a nature hike around and over the top of the island.  The statue is in honor of St. Francis of Assisi who lived 40 days on this island as a hermit during Lent in 1211.  Once you have hiked to the top of the island you see lots and lots of olive groves that belong to the church.   The church has no membership so the olives go unattended. 


Back to the tiny town and lunch at this restaurant.


Assisi:  The town is best known for the legacy of Saint Francis and his followers who practiced humility and compassion in the face of poverty.  We visited the 13th century Basilica.  No photos were allowed inside.  The church was begun immediately after St. Francis canonization in 1228, and completed in 1253. 

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Oh my, we experienced rain & hail we were leaving the Church.  We took shelter under these porticos.


Trevi:  We transferred from Pienza to Trevi to stay for the next three nights right in the heart of this charming little hillside town.    Most of the medieval town lies on sharply sloping terrain, with only the very center being more or less flat.  Again, I loved the hilltop village.


Antica Dimora alla Rocca:  Our hotel for three nights in Trevi.  The rooms and suites located in the 17th century palace are splendid.  The hotel was restored in 2003 to its previous splendor. 


Norcia:  Guess what?  Another town surrounded by defensive walls, but it’s not on a hilltop.  It a small town in the Nera Valley in Umbria and it’s renowned for its salami and prosciutto.  We sampled the various goodies.  


The main piazza of Norcia and the Church of St. Benedict was built in the 13th century.


Pianciano:  While in the rural Umbria area we went to a local farm located in the olive groves.  The estate was beautiful.  Some rode in style in the rain to the estate.  While there we saw their herd of Chianina cattle, toured the winery and enjoyed the wine they produce at the estate. 


Pettino:  Today we departed for a small mountain village nestled in a high plateau in the heart of the Appenines.  We met the members of a family in a small mountain community that have been living here for generations.  They grow crops, tend sheep, and gather truffles and mushrooms from the surrounding birch forests.  Upon arrival we were welcomed into their home for coffee and cake.


Truffle Hunting:  Truffles are related to mushrooms and are known as hypogenous fungi.  They have a root-like structure but never emerge from the surface, but stay close to the tree’s root systems.  Pigs can be used to hunt truffles, but they also like to eat them.  So trained truffle hunting dogs are a key to successfully hunting the expensive truffles. 

  So along with a member of the family and his truffle hunting dogs, we set off on 4-wheel-drive vehicles to go higher up in the mountain to hunt for truffles.  It was a beautiful sunny day and the hike and truffle hunting was a fun experience.   And yes the dogs found truffles.

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A hunting we will go.


After finding just enough truffles they made fresh scrambled eggs with grated truffles over the top.  It was pretty tasty.  Oh, yes, and wine of course. 

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Then here came the sheep, the shepherd and the Great Pyrenees dogs.  While up in the mountains their sheep will have have a shepherd and the Great Pyrenees with them.


This family also also owns Chianina cattle.  Coming down the mountain from truffle hunting we could see the family farm compound where we’d spend the rest of the afternoon. 


Back to the farm.  Time for a little wine…again.


The grandmother of the family has been making pasta since she was five years old.  She showed us everything there is to know about making pasta.  Later we ate it for lunch. 


We bid farewell to Umbria and began our overland transfer to the Roman countryside.  We stopped at a little town and they were having a Sunday market. 


 Parco dei Mostri, Bomarzo:  Park of the Monsters was a fun place for a morning stroll.  Begun in 1552, the garden features a series of bizarre and fascinating stone sculptures meant to shock.


Boccea:  The last night of our trip was spent at the “Borgo di Tragliata”, an agriturismo lodging located outside of Rome.  We had another splendid meal, more great wine, and music and a djay.  It was the perfect ending of a fantastic trip with a group of tremendous travelers. 

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Thus ends another memorable meander of the Farmer’s.  Happy trails!

Posted April 22, 2015 by marilynfarmer in Travel

Christmas Markets Along the Danube & Christmas in Vienna with Family   6 comments

Christmas Markets Along the Danube & Christmas in Vienna with Family

Nuremberg, Regensburg, Passau, Linz, Melk, Vienna & Bratislava

Dec. 16 – 30, 2014


Our family Christmas adventure began with a delightful cruise with Grand Circle Cruise Line.  Jim & I along with our son Eric, and daughter Karree boarded the River Aria in Nuremberg, Germany on Dec. 16, 2014 to do the “Christmas Markets Along the Danube.”   This was the 33rd trip with Grand Circle/Overseas Adventure for Jim & I.  As per usual everything was spot-on:  Harold, our “above & beyond the call of duty tour-director”; Constantin, the hotel manager; Ambrose, the Captain; and the staff & crew on the River Aria.  (The map below is copied from www.gct.com).

Save Money:  If you decide you’d like to go on this or any Grand Circle Travel or Overseas Adventure Travel trip, and you are a first time traveler with them, they will give you $100 off any trip if you mention the name of my travel blog and my customer #000561413.  New travelers instantly receive $100 off the cost of the trip, and I will receive $100 when you depart on your trip. 


“Christmas Markets Along the Danube” ended in Vienna, Austria on Christmas Eve morning.  At that point Jim & I and Eric & Karree went to our daughter and son-in-laws home for a week.  Jim & Kellee live in Vienna Austria so we had our very own personal tour guides and a wonderful time celebrating Christmas at their home which is located right in the first district of Vienna.  We certainly missed our youngest son and his wife.  But they are looking forward to Vienna & etc. in Sept. and Dad & Mom might just make it back about that time also.  We don’t want Kellee & Jim to get lonely.


Nuremberg, Germany:  This medieval city surrounded by 13th-century walls is the second-largest city in Bavaria. 


Today the city’s name evokes the notorious post-World War II war trials, the Nazi Party Rally Grounds and the half finished gigantic Congress Hall where Hitler planned to hold party meetings. 


The Documentation Center:  Is a museum in Nuremberg, that is in the north wing of the unfinished remains of the Congress Hall of the former Nazi party rallies.  “Fascination and Terror” is concerned with the causes, connections, and consequences of Nazi Germany.  Excellent museum. 


Christkindlmarkt (Christmas Market) of Nuremberg:  Located in the Hauptmarkt square in the old quarter, this is Germany’s most famous traditional Christmas market.  It was alive with the aroma of gingerbread, Nuremberg bratwurst and gluhwein (hot mulled wine). 


The Christmas Markets in the various towns are always set in a scenic old town square.  Entertainment, singing and bands add to the festivities.  All kinds of things are available to buy in various booths throughout the market.  Lots of delicious food is being prepared.  It’s fun deciding what to buy to eat.  


When a hot gluhwein is purchased, for an extra 2 Euro you may keep the mug.  Of course the idea is to have it refilled many, many times.  I have a collection of Christmas Markets gluhwein mugs, and that is my excuse for buying gluhwein at every Christmas Market.  My first of many mugs. 


Concert:  We enjoyed an pipe-organ concert in one of the beautiful churches in Nuremberg.


Another Christmas Market in Nurrenburg:  So much merriment & fun.


Cruising from Nuremberg towards Regensburg:  We were invited to sit at the Captain’s table for dinner.  Later we enjoyed going outside and watching as we went through a lock on the Main-Danube Canal.  

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Then the excitement happened!  On the second night aboard the ship, our daughter Karree suffered an acute appendicitis attack.  I went with her by ambulance to a little town called Neumarkt, Germany.  She had an emergency appendectomy shortly after arriving at the hospital.  It was done laparoscopically and she did well, and was released the next morning.  We took a train to Regensburg, where our wonderful tour director, Harold met us at the train station.  She was a trooper.  She didn’t miss a beat on the whole trip.  So, I have a rather cute picture of her in the surgery hose waiting on the train. 


Cruising the Main-Danube Canal: 


Regensburg, Germany:  The town suffered little damage during WWII, so it remains a hidden treasure dating back to medieval times.  The medieval center of the city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 


The Regensburg Cathedral:  An example of pure German Gothic architecture.  It was founded in 1275 and completed in 1634.  Lots of nice buildings in the medieval center of Regensburg. 


Concert:  Jim & Eric enjoyed a boys choral concert featuring festive holiday music.  Karree & I didn’t enjoy sitting at the hospital. 


Mom & Karree join back up with the trip:  Karree & I took the train from Neumarkt and arrived in Regensburg with enough time for me to go into the cute little town and visit the Christmas Market before we sailed away.  And, another Christmas Market mug for my collection. 


   Kienze’s Walhalla, built in 1842:  Sailing near Regensburg we saw an imposing Classical building erected by Ludwig I of Bavaria as national monuments to German patriotism and greatness.  It is a costly reproduction of the Parthenon. 


Cruising:  Perfect timing for a day of cruising.  Karree had the opportunity to just sit around the ship, recover, and enjoy the pretty sites as we cruised down the Danube. 


 Passau, Germany:  Situated at the confluence of the Danube, the Ilz, and the Inn rivers, Passau has been called the City on Three Rivers.  Below is the lovely Town Hall and a pretty advent wreath. 


It was a bit cool so time for a cappuccino and maybe something sweet.


St. Stephen’s Cathedral was built in the 17th century.  It has the world’s largest church organ, with 17,774 pipes.  We had the opportunity to listen to the organ…pretty grand.


Christmas Market in Passau in front of St. Stephens Cathedral.  Karree has a cute new hat that was made locally, and Marilyn has another gluhwein mug to add to her collection. 


We are at the “tip” of town where the confluence of the Danube, the Ilz,, and the Inn rivers meet.  Passau is surrounded on both sides with water. 


Back to our Riverboat, otherwise known as “ship.”  Karree is pointing out our cabin. 


  Linz, Austria:  It’s one of the largest ports on the Danube and the second-most populous city in Austria.  As we entered the city next to where our ship was docked we were at Hauptplatz.  We rode the little Christmas Market train and got a good over-view of the city.

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A fun visit to the Christmas Market in Linz.  Of course we needed to collect another mug. 


We visited the tourist office and discovered we could go on the city tram to the pretty church on top of the hill in the distance.  It was a nice ride on a steeply graded tramway which climbed the small mountain at the northwest edge of the town.  It has a viewing platform over the city, and is the site of the Poslingberg Pilgrimage Church. 


The Poslingberg Pilgrimage Church was built in 1748.  The church is popular for weddings because of the unique location


After stopping at a little restaurant for a cappuccino we rode back on the nice tram from Poslingbern to Linz city center.  Our River Aria was docked just next to the entrance into Linz. 


Melk Abbey, Melk Austria:  On my, the grandeur of the Baroque Melk Abbey! It is a massive Benedictine monastery, which was founded in 1089 in a medieval fortress belonging to the House of Babenberg. After 1,000 years it’s still functioning as an abbey and school today.  Our first stop on our tour of Melk Abbey was the Abbey Museum which is located in the imperial rooms. 


Within the Museum is a model of the Abbey complex.


From the Museum we went into to the Marble Hall which was the imperial banqueting chamber in the high baroque style.  The walls and ceiling are magnificently decorated.  The ceiling fresco was painted in 1731.


The Abbey library rises two floors and also has a beautifully painted ceiling.  It contains approximately 80,000 volumes of priceless works, from the 9th through the 15th centuries.  (No photos were allowed in the library.  I copied this from Wikipedia where the holder of the photo released it into the public domain).   


Before entering the Church at Melk Abbey one can overlook the Danube and the pretty little town of Melk.


The high point of the baroque monastery is the awesomely beautiful church.


And the best part of the cruise was being with two of our kids.


Wachau Valley:  It was a delightful sunny and warm afternoon to cruise along one of the most beautiful parts of the Danube – the Wachau Valley.


  And suddenly it was the last day on the “MS Aria.”  Time certainly flies when you are having fun. Seems only fitting to capture the delightful time in the dining area ready for another delicious meal.   


Karree enjoying the little balcony off our cabin on the river ship.  Captain Ambrose waved us into the bridge for an up close and personal look.  I asked permission for a photo.


The parade of the baked Alaska.  And…the sun sets on our final evening of our cruise of the “Christmas Markets Along the Danube.” 


And the merriment continues on the second part of our Christmas Holiday.  Our daughter and husband live in Vienna, Austria so we met them and stayed on for another week.  We managed to find each other in the Christmas Market in front of the Rathaus (City Hall) in Vienna.  


Enjoying a good bratwurst in the pretty little square near Kellee & Jim’s apartment. 


Another Christmas Market in Vienna.


And another Christmas Market in Vienna.


Christmas Eve Dinner at a Serbian Restaurant with friends, Milcho & Jenn.  Milcho is Macedonian and this is his favorite restaurant, it puts him in mind of “home”.  A fun evening. 


Votivkirche: We attended Christmas Eve service at VotivKirche (Votive Church).  Following the attempted assassination of Emperor Franz Joseph in 1853, the Emperor’s brother Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian inaugurated a campaign to create a church to thank God for saving the Emperor’s life. The church was dedicated in 1879.  It’s a lovely church. 


Since this is all in Jim & Kellee’s neighborhood we had a pleasing stroll from the 10:30 p.m. service at VotivKirche to Christmas Eve Midnight Mass at St. Stephens Cathedral. 


We had the honor of attending Christmas Eve Midnight Mass in St. Stephens Cathedral in Vienna.


A delightful Christmas night dinner at our kids home. 


Milcho, our favorite Macedonian, is all decked out to come to Kansas.  He can wear his overalls, the t-shirt from the Prairie Nut Hut and his Lenny’s Quality Oil, or his Carl’s Sales & Service cap.


Schönbrunn Palace:  A former imperial summer residence of the Habsburgs that is located in Vienna.  The 1,441-room Baroque palace is part of UNESCO’s cultural heritage due to its historic importance, its unique grounds and its splendid furnishings.   Emperor Franz Joseph, who later married the enchanting Sisi and reigned from 1848 to 1916, was born here in 1830. (No photos were allowed inside.)  And….there was a Christmas Market in front it the Palace. 


Dinner at the Augustiner Keller, near the Opera House in Vienna.  We had typical Austrian food. 


One of my highlights of Vienna was attending “The Nutcracker” performance at the awesome Wiener Staatsoper (Vienna State Opera House).  I bought the tickets on line as soon as they became available.  Now granted, they weren’t the best seats in the house, but I think those are sold out to season ticket holders.  It was spectacular to just be in the fantastic opera house.


Another fun meal at another keller in Vienna.  The “Sisis Keller Restaurant”.  It was located down a long stairway and in a cave. 


So, it was essential that we went to Bratislava, Slovakia.  By going to this country Jim & I celebrated the fact that we have been to 74 countries.  It is only a one-hour train ride from Vienna.  Bratislava is the capital and largest city in Slovakia and lies on both banks of the Danube River.  We walked to the Old Town from the train station. 

The fortification gate and tower were built in the 13th century. 


Shana, this is for you.  Karree, please get the fellow up and out of the man-hole. 


As usual we didn’t have any problem finding someplace to eat, and there was so much of it. 


There was an ice-skating rink in the Old Town.  I guess with the little cannon in front of the espresso shop, they can keep the riff raff out.


Time for a little shopping.


It’s snowing, must be time to walk back to the train station.


Our last night in Vienna and Karree made us delicious spaghetti & meatballs. 


Thus ends the Farmer’s Christmas Holiday with family. There is only one thing that would have made this the perfect Christmas Holiday.  And that is if all of our kids could have been with us.  Missed you Derick & Chelsea! 

Posted January 19, 2015 by marilynfarmer in Travel

Northern Italy & Cinque Terre Walking Tour, San Gimignano & Riomaggiore, Italy   10 comments

Northern Italy & Cinque Terre Walking Tour, San Gimignano & Riomaggiore, Italy

Sept. 16 – Oct. 2, 2014


Jim & I booked this walking tour with Go Ahead Tours.  This is our sixth trip with this company and as usual we were very pleased with the trip and itinerary.  I will admit that some of the walking and the mountain climbing was a bit too challenging for us.  However, a great itinerary for a little younger and more “fit” people.  For no additional charge Go Ahead booked our air and we arrived in Stresa two days before the other eighteen in our group, and we also stayed behind an additional 6 days so we could go to San Gimignano and Riomaggiore on our own. 

Quoting from Go Ahead Tours:  This is the different Italy—a region bursting with the happily unexpected. Go north and step into a land where rock spires rise above lush, green landscapes.  Tranquil lakes and perfumed vineyards spill across the horizon, stretching on for miles and miles. An epic coastline runs alongside towering cliffs and terraced vineyards. From Lake Maggiore and the staggering Dolomites to the “Five Worlds” tucked within the Riviera’s Cinque Terre, tread through Italian landscapes at their most surreal and surprising.

Oda, was our excellent tour director.  She was indeed a joy, making it obvious that she loves her job.  Her favorite expression was “yippee”  and she was always encouraging and helpful.


Lake Maggiore, Stresa, Italy:  Stresa is a town of about 5,000 on the shores of Lake Maggiore in northern Italy.  Since the early 20th century, the main source of income has been the tourist trade.  Lake Maggiore is the second largest lake in Italy and the largest in Southern Switzerland.  It extends for about 40 miles.  The climate is mild in both summer and winter, producing Mediterranean vegetation.  These pictures of the lake were taken from the balcony of our hotel (Grand Hotel Bristol) in Stresa. 


  The little town of Stresa is a cute little town.  Lots of good restaurants also.  The weather was still good to eat outdoors.


Borromean Islands:  While in Stresa, Jim & I took the local ferry and visited the three Borromean Islands that are located close to Stresa.  We bought our tickets at the Ferry Station. We purchased the Rover Tickets, which is unlimited travel for one day between the islands and included entrances to the Villas and Gardens on Isola Bella & Isola Madre. We qualify for Sr. Discount and the lady cheerfully gave us the discount. We paid 32.10 Euro each for the tickets.

Isola Bella:  This small island has a stunning Baroque palace and elaborate Italian gardens.  Isola Bella was originally just a rocky crag until in 1632 when Charles Borromeo began the construction of a palazzo dedicated to his wife, Isabella D’Adda.  Visiting the palace we saw sumptuous rooms filled with paintings and ornate furniture.  (No pictures were allowed).  The gardens were spectacular. 


The palace is at one end of the island, the gardens at the other end and a small fishing village in between. 


 Isola Madre:  It’s the largest island of the Borromean Islands.  The palace was built in the 16th century (pictures not allowed inside) and it is surrounded by spectacular gardens.  It is one of Italy’s oldest botanical gardens with rare sub-tropical plants, exotic flowers and many multi-colored birds & parrots. 


Isola dei Pescatori:  This island is a characteristic fishing village rather than a noble residence.  It is inhabited by fishermen and their families.  There are lanes lined with homes, and also some shops and seafood restaurants. 


 Sacro Monte:  From Stresa we drove by coach to Lake Orta & Sacro Monte.  Sacro Monte is a Roman Catholic devotional complex dedicated to St. Francis of Assisi.  The project began in 1583 and involves 20 chapels that are positioned on the slopes of the mountain along a trail.  It is on the UNESCO World Heritage list.  The last picture of the island is San Guilio Island which we visited after the town of Orto San Guilio.   


Orta San Giulio:  We walked down the mountain from Sacro Monte to Orta San Giulio.  It’s a pretty little town of about 1,200 population. 


San Giulio Island:  A small island on Lake Orton located near Orta San Giulio.  We took a water taxi to get over to it.  The most famous building on the island is the Basilica of Saint Giulio.  Next to the Basilica is the old Seminary (1840s).  Since 1976 it has been a Benedictine monastery.  We exited the Basilica in a driving rain.  We sloshed around and tried to look at the island. 


 Centovalli Railway Round Trip:  While we were still in Stresa, Jim & I decided we wanted to ride the Swiss train through the mountains and see the views.   The scenic train (the Centovalli) goes between Locarno and Domosossola running through the magical “Hundred Valleys.”  There were lots of beautiful views. On the ride between Domodossola and Locarno we saw gushing waterfalls, vineyards, chestnut forests and quaint villages, roll right by our window.

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It wasn’t complicated and only costs 32 Euro each.  The package included taking a train from Stresa to Domodossola.  In Domodossola we followed the well marked signage to the Centovalli Railway platform and boarded that train.  We rode of the narrow gage railway about 2 hours seeing the lovely scenery.


  After our scenic 2 hour train ride we arrived in Locarno, Switzerland.  The train station is right in the center of the town.  We enjoyed the lakeside area the most.


The conclusion of our Centovalli Railway Round Trip was the return from Locarno, Switzerland to Stresa, Italy by ferry.  It was a lovely, sunny day and we really enjoyed the three hour voyage.


It was fun seeing the bride & groom and the little decorated wedding boat. 


The next morning we left the Stresa and the Lake Maggiore area and drove towards Bolzano and the Dolomites.  En route we stopped in Valpolicella, a countryside area known for its olive groves and superior wine vintages.

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San Giorgio di Valpolicella:  This little village is located on the top of a rocky outcrop, built around its church.  The church was built around the 8th century. 


Next on the agenda was a hike from the little town to the next town on the “health path” through the forest.  The funny part was the great debate on putting Jim’s walking stick together.  He finally had to come to his own rescue and assemble the stick. 


Masi Vineyards:  We arrived at the Masi Vineyards for a winetasting, lunch and tour.  The Boscaini family have been the owners of the Masi vineyards for six generations.  It was a lovely place and we had a delightful lunch. 


  Bolzano, Italy:  It is the capital city of the province of South Tyrol in northern Italy.  The town was German until after WWI, and it’s character remains distinctly Germanic.  The town is known for it’s apple strudel & it was delicious.  Bolzano was our hotel base while we discovered the Dolomites. 


 Earth Pyramids & Panoramic Landscapes of Ritten:  A favorite of mine.  We rode on a cable car, then a train, then walked to discover the Pyramids, lastly we had a delicious German dinner. 

First, we boarded a cable car and rode to the village of Soprabolzano, which is a provincial village set on a plateau. 


Next we rode the panoramic railway to Collalbo.  We saw views of rolling pastures and soaring limestone peaks along the way. 


From Collalbo we set out on foot to the towering Earth Pyramids.  First a walk through town.  We thought the town had a Swiss look about it. 


We walked towards the Earth Pyramids on the Ritten plateau.  This is the day that someone’s pedometer indicated that we walked 9 1/4 miles. 


Then we walked through another village and stopped to look at a cemetery.


The Earth Pyramids:   They are unique formations that were formed by moraine clays left by the glaciers of the last ice age.  We were overlooking the Earth Pyramids in a stunning valley, surrounded by mountains, with a beautiful little church situated perfectly.

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Then relaxing with a cold drink and later eating a delicious German meal.  A lovely day!



Dolomites from Alpe de Siusi:  Info indicates that the Alpe di Siusi is the undisputed queen of all high mountain plateaus in the world.  It is regarded as one of the most fabulous landscapes in the Dolomites.  It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  In the summertime, many trails are enjoyed by hikers, and in the wintertime, these same slopes are a paradise for skiers, snowboarders and snowshoe hikers.  Well, I must say that since Jim & I are none of the above, the hike up & down, (mostly up) was a bit of a challenge.  We didn’t go as far as the rest of the group, but we made it to a great restaurant that is on one of the many trails.  (Yay).

First we rode the big cable car.


Next, was the death march up the mountain.  I didn’t have strength enough left to click a proper photo.  (LOL)


Now on the rolling plateau.  Scenery was beautiful.


The high road or the low?  It was the high.


Almost to a rest stop & restaurant and a good German meal.  Wish I knew how many miles we’d walked. 


Jim & I decided not to go on with our group on another loop of the trail.  Instead we hiked for another half-zillion miles and found a small cable car down to another level, then walked back up to the big cable car to meet the group at the end of the day.  We were fascinated with the groups of fat, healthy cattle (including bulls) that were separated from us with a single electric wire.


On the closing laps of our zillion mile hike, Jim & I enjoyed stopping to watch some Italian farming in the high country. 



We said goodbye to the Dolomites and traveled south from Bolzano to the sunny shores of the Italian Riviera.  On the way we stopped for lunch and a delightful tour of Mantua, Italy.

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Mantua, Italy:  Mantua is a beautiful, historic city in northern Italy surrounded on three sides by lakes. It was one of the greatest Renaissance Courts in Europe and home of the wealthy Gonzaga family. The town’s center is three spacious and lively squares that join together.  Mantua’s historic power and influence under the Gonzaga family made it one of the main artistic, cultural, and especially musical hubs of Northern Italy.  Mantua’s old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.


I enjoyed pumpkin ravioli, and Jim had yet another kind of pasta for lunch. 


Portovenere:  Our hotel for the Italian Riviera/Cinque Terra was in Portovenere.  The town is located right on the coast, with a beautiful old town right along the water.  Overlooking everything is a castle and the Gothic Church of St. Peter.  We walked past the little town that lined the water to the far end and visited the Gothic Church of St. Peter which dates from 1198.   


Beautiful sunset in Portovenere.


 Cinque Terra, Italy:  Clinging to the cliffs is a group of five picturesque seaside villages perched atop the rocky Mediterranean coastline of the Ligurian Sea.   The villages abound with ancient churches, castles, and homes that line narrow streets and squares.  These coastal cliffs keep Cinque Terre in scenic isolation.  Most visitors arrive by boat or train because it is very difficult to reach the villages by road.  Most of the villages are linked by footpaths along craggy trails.  Cinque Terra is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

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Our group set out by boat to visit the Cinque Terra on a bright and sunny morning.  As you can see by the above map that our hotel town of Portovenere is just down the coast from the villages of Cinque Terre.  On the boat ride we enjoyed the water view of Portovenere’s and it’s Church of St. Peter.


Monterosso:  This is the first town of the Cinque Terre that we visited.  It is the largest of the five, and the most heavily visited.  It is the only village with a nice long span of beach right in town.   


All of our “fit” travel mates hiked from Monterosso to Vernazza.  Jim & I went by train and enjoyed it “just fine.”  And here they are!  We caught them having a bite to eat.  Yes, they not only hike…they eat.


Vernazza:  It has a charming central square located right by the water, and there’s a lovely church tower on one side.  The ruins of a castle is on one of the hills overlooking Vernazza. 


Manarola:  It is a little more rustic and less polished than its northern neighbors.  The tiny harbor features a boat ramp and picturesque multicolored houses facing the sea. 



Jim & I didn’t go to the town of Corniglia because it’s located on top of a cliff overlooking the sea.  We weren’t in the notion to hike up the 33 flights with 382 steps.  Since the two of us were coming back to Riomaggiore to stay for a couple of nights on our own, we decided to not walk into that town either and to just save it as a surprise for later in the week. 

We left the Cinque Terre area and drove towards Florence, stopping at Lucca on the way. 

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Lucca, Italy:  It’s historic center, with medieval towers and nearly 100 churches, is completely enclosed by its intact Renaissance-era city walls.  These walls are some of the best preserved ramparts in Italy and you can walk completely around Lucca on top of the wall.  It has a population of around 89,000.


Florence, Italy:  The last stop on our walking trip with Go Ahead was in Florence, the birthplace  of the Renaissance.  The historic center was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982.  Since this was our fourth trip to Florence, we didn’t do the extension in the city with the group.  This time, Jim & I just barely touched on the highlights of the city.  


A trip highlight:  Our oldest daughter and son-in-law live in Vienna, Austria.  They came by night train into Florence to meet up with us.  We met them at the train station and later took a bus to San Gimignano to spend the weekend together. 

San Gimignano:  A medieval hill town in Tuscany, which is famous for its medieval architecture and towers.  At the height of its glory, San Gimignano’s patrician families had built around 72 tower-houses as symbols of their wealth and power.  They stood in defense of the walled city.  Only 14 have survived time, but San Gimignano has retained its feudal atmosphere and appearance.  It’s like walking back into time….a taste of what it must have been like more than 700 years ago.  It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1990.  A delightful weekend!


We stayed “La Cisterna Hotel” which is located at the top of the village on the beautiful and famous Piazza della Cisterna in San Gimignano.  The hotel is the buildings covered with ivy.  I booked our hotels on Expedia, and everything turned out perfectly.


The views out of the windows of the kids hotel room.  The Tuscan Valley is beautiful. 


The Cistern of Piazza della Cisterna. 


  We decided that this was our favorite restaurant in San Gimignano..…Antica Macelleria Trattoria.


“Gelateria Dondoli”, world champion Gelato winners & a scale model of San Gimignano.


Street scenes.  Busy during the day, very pleasant in the evening without the crowds.


Directly in front of the Duomo (1st photo) is the Palazzo Vecchio dei Podesta, (2nd photo) imposing and topped with a tower.  The construction dates back to the 12th & 13th century. 


Guess what?  More eating!


The cisterns of San Gimignano, and us. 


Good-bye San Gimignano, it was grand!


The morning after the kids left, Jim & I took a bus to Poggibonsi (no train station in San Gimignano.)  At the little train station we bought tickets from a machine to Riomaggiore in Cinque Terrra.  The journey took about about 3 1/2 hours, with two connections and cost about 18 Euro each.


Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre:   The Cinque Terra is a stretch of five towns along the Italian Riviera.  Each town is perched on seaside cliffs along a ravine, with old colorful building leaning upon each other.  Riomaggiore is considered the most substantial non-resort of the five towns, (and I quote) “with a fascinating tangle of pastel homes that lean on each other like drunken sailors.”

I had booked a little apartment “Mar-Mar.”  It was the Punta A apartment.   It was up and up a zillion uneven steps, but had a view to die for.  Of which I thought I might (die) after about the tenth hike up the zillion uneven steps.  The arrow on the following photo indicates the location of our little apartment for two nights.  The small picture of steps is one tiny section of the approximately ten sections of steps that we went up to get to the Mar-Mar apartment. 


Looking off the balcony from our apartment.  A double door opened onto the balcony from both the living room and the bedroom. 


The main street (only street) in Riomaggiore.


Our favorite eating in Riomaggiore was buying the cone of mixed fresh seafood, or all calamari.  It was only 5 Euro, and was fresh & delicious. 


Close-up of viewing the fishermen from our balcony.


The harbor area of Riomaggiore.


Jim is in the height of his glory.  He’s getting to fix breakfast for us just like he does everyday at home. 


And thus the sun sets on another glorious, fantastic adventure!!


The next day we took the train back to Florence, stayed the night and were in flight back to Kansas the next morning. 

Posted October 18, 2014 by marilynfarmer in Travel

Turkey’s Sacred Lands & Ancient Civilizations {Part 2, Days 11-20}   Leave a comment

Turkey’s Sacred Lands & Ancient Civilizations

{Part 2, Days 11-20:  Ankara, Cappadocia, Antakya, Gaziantep, Mt. Nemrut, Tarsus & Adana}

March 28 – April 16, 2014


{Part 2}  Since we had never been to Eastern Turkey, Jim & I selected this trip, “Turkey’s Sacred Lands & Ancient Civilizations”  from Overseas Adventure Travel.  This was our 32nd trip with this company and as usual we were extremely pleased with the itinerary and the learning and discovery experiences.   We have previously been to Turkey but never to Eastern Turkey.  The only repeats on this journey were Istanbul, Uchisar, and Goreme.   We experienced unforgettable historic treasures, relics of ancient civilizations, Biblical history and interaction with the local people.   There were fifteen travelers in our group, and a fine group it was.  We enjoyed our travel friends.  Pictured below is our trip leader, Adnan.   (This map is copied from the Overseas Adventure web site.) 


Save Money:  If you decide you’d like to go on this or any Overseas Adventure Travel or Grand Circle Travel trip, and you are a first time traveler with them, they will give you $100 off any trip if you mention the name of my travel blog and my customer #000561413.  New travelers instantly receive $100 off the cost of the trip, and I will receive $100 when you depart on your trip. 

{Beginning of Part 2:  Turkey, from Cappadocia to Adana, Days 11-20}


Trabzon to Ankara:  After breakfast we took a short flight from Trabzon to Ankara.


Ankara:  This region of central Anatolia in which Ankara is situated is also the heartland of the long-vanished Hittite civilization.  We visited the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations which was a disappointment because the only section open was the Roman section.  Next we went to the Ataturk Mausoleum & Museum.  He was leader of the Turkish War of Independence and first president of Turkey. 


Cappadocia, Turkey:  Jim & I have been to this area before, but I don’t think I’d ever tire of seeing this region of exceptional natural wonders, which is characterized by fairy chimneys.  The landscape of Cappadocia was created around 30 million years ago.  The volcanic ash eroded into “tuff”.  Over time, the tuff was worn away, creating distinctive formations, including the capped-cone “fairy chimneys.” This area covers about 116 square miles.   


Uchisar Rock Citadel:  The natural rock citadel of Uchisar is the tallest point in Cappadocia.  First photo is taken at a distance while we were out on a hike, the second photo is a close-up of the same area.   


Strolling around the unique town of Uchisar.  They were a lot of fixer-uppers, and a lot that were repaired and in good shape even due to time, erosion and weathering.  It was fascinating!


Some of the nice hotels in the Uchisar.  We looked into one of the rooms, it would be a fun place to stay. 


We visited a home where the family actually lives in the cone shaped rock.  Then we did what you rightfully do in Turkey, we had chai (hot tea). 


We couldn’t get enough of the beautiful sites of Cappadocia.  Love, this place. 


I about decided that right here in Cappadocia, Turkey, we’d found Doofus, our missing dog.  You have to look carefully but he’s also in the second photo, in the due center. 


Kaymakli Underground City:  A UNESCO World Heritage Site.  There are 36 underground cities in Cappadocia but Kaymakli is the widest.  These cave-cities were excavated as early as Hittite times, (1600 BC-1180 BC) and expanded over the centuries.  Early Christians suffered a lot from the Romans, pagans, and Arab invaders, so they refuged in underground cities.  The softness of the tuff made it easy to excavate in order to create dwellings.  This settlement had living quarters, stables, wells, ventilation systems, churches and storage rooms.  There are nearly one hundred tunnels in this underground city.  Archeologists think that this city could have been had a population up to 3,500 people, in addition to their livestock.  This underground city consists of 8 floors below ground, but only 4 of them are open to the public today.  Amazing!


Walking through the tunnels.  Second photo is the church with the altar in the foreground.  The top part of the third photo shows shows a stone door. 


Oh dear, a little entrance and double oh dear……Jim made it through!


Well, now that was an experience, wasn’t it? 


We did an invigorating hike from Uchisar to Goreme.  It took us a couple of hours, some longer than others, but I ask, “what was the hurry?”  Then of course it was time for chai. 


So first thing the next morning we continued on with another splendid hike in the beautiful sunshine through elongated shaped columns that are capped with layers of slightly harder material.


Chai time right?  Nope, it was fresh squeezed orange-juice time.  And a little shopping opportunity. 

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Goreme Open-Air Museum:  A UNESCO World Heritage Site.  This area contains the finest of the rock-cut churches, with beautiful frescoes whose colors are still vivid.  Most of the churches located here belong to the 10th, 11th and 12 centuries.  Pictures weren’t allowed inside.


Way to go Jerry, are you going to ride all the way home?


Looking out the window on our bus ride from Cappadocia to Antakya (Ancient Antioch).


Antakya:  We traveled to Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, stayed at a nice hotel in Antakya, and from there visited close by areas of interest. 


Vakifli:  We set out to experience A Day in the Life of two Turkish villages.  First, we visited Vakifli, an Armenian village perched on the slope of a mountain overlooking the Mediterranean.  It is known as the last Christian Armenian village in Turkey. 


Along the mountain road.  We discovered a mule under all that grass. 


Kapisuyu:  We visited a local school in this mountain village near Syria.  It is supported by Grand Circle Foundation, a part of the World Classroom initiative. 


We enjoyed a nice home hosted lunch in the same village as the school.  I brought the kids bubbles, and it appeared to be a hit.  The mayor & his staff showed up for lunch with us also.


Now for a demonstration of bread baking.  The bread was very good.  We had it hot and fresh for lunch. 


Ancient Seleucia:  In 301 BC Seleucia was a port for Antioch (now Antakya).  The apostle Peter chose this locale for his first mission to the Gentiles, and his converts in Antioch were the first group to go by the name Christians.  Seleucia was the seaport from which Paul and Barnabas departed for their first missionary journey in 49 AD.  (Acts 13:4).  It was amazing to see remaining structures in this area. 


Titus Tunnel at Seleucia:  This is another Roman engineering marvel.  The Romans decided to divert a river, so slaves cut a channel along and through the rock for nearly a mile.  The project started around 69-79 AD and was continued during Emperor Titus reign in 79-81 AD.


Hatay Archaeological Museum:  We saw the collection of Roman and Byzantine mosaics dating from the 1st to 5th centuries AD.  The works in the museum are arranged according to where they were found.  I was amazed at the vibrant colors that remained in mosaics that are over 2,000 years old.  An excellent museum. 


Overland to Gaziantep.

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Gaziantep, Turkey:  Next we headed back to the Eastern Anatolia region.  The site has been occupied since Hittite times.  A crumbling citadel with 36 towers looms over the town.  Just below the citadel is a bazaar that sells anything and everything you can think of. 

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On our way to Mt. Nemrut.  And then a picnic lunch at the base of Mt. Nemrut.


 Mt. Nemrut:  A UNESCO World Heritage Site.  The huge stone heads on the summit of Mount Nemrut were built by King Antiochus I Theos, who ruled the Commagene kingdom between 64 & 38 BC.  To glorify his rule, the king had three enormous terraces cut in to the mountain top.  Colossal statues of himself and the major gods were placed on the terraces, and the summit became a sanctuary where the king was worshipped.  It is believed to be the site of King Antiochus tomb, but to date, it has never been found. 


Well, trust me, this was a goodly hike for the senior set.  It has become apparent to me as I post this blog, just exactly what my favorite things were.…and this is one of them.  The destination of our hike is up the mountain and to the peak seen in the first picture.  It all started out with a nice sidewalk, then towards the end it was slip, sliding rocks, but we all made it with weak smiles & a huff & a puff. 


Now we are nearing the top and no more nice sidewalk.  A few times I thought I might slide with the rocks down to the valley below.  Of course I hugged the inside of the path, and anyone that wanted, was free to pass me on the outside. 


Rounding the last bend in the trail and this is what we saw.  We gazed upon statues that are over 2,000 years old!  And located on top of the mountain were they were originally placed.  The bodies of the colossal statues stand, with their carved heads laying scattered at their feet around the haunting peak of Mount Nemrut. 


On the eastern terrace of the mountaintop were huge statues of King Antiochus, flaked by two lions, two eagles and various gods.  These statues were once seated, with names of each god inscribed on them.  The heads of the statues have at some stage been removed from their bodies, and they are now scattered throughout the site. 


We stand amazed among these relics of an ancient civilization. 


To get from the eastern terrace to the western terrace we encountered snow in the path.  So, we could either walk through the knee deep snow or get off the path that was way too close to the edge of the mountain for me.  As I stumbled along this lovely young lady took my hand and we stumbled through the railroad ties and large rocks together and she kept me safe. 


On the western terrace the statues are just here, there and everywhere.


On the western terrace there are several reliefs that are in good condition.  The relief carving of a lion surrounded by stars and a crescent moon is considered to be one of the oldest horoscope representations in the world.  It shows the arrangement of stars and the planets Jupiter, Mercury and Mars on 7 July 62 BC. This may be an indication of when construction began on this monument.

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Heading down from Mt. Nemrat.  It was a great sidewalk path all the way down. 


We packed up and left Gaziantep and headed in a westerly direction to Adana, which would be the destination for the last two nights of our trip. 


Kastabala, Turkey:  On our drive to Adana we made a brief stop here, just because we wanted to see some more “old” stuff.   The ruins seen at Kastabala historic site today are all from the Roman Period.  The colonnaded street at the entrance was built around 200 AD.  Ruins were as far as the eye could see.  Very little of the site is excavated. 


Karatepe, Turkey:  This place was a late Hittite city dating from the eighth century BC.  It was in a beautiful site in the Taurus Mountains and on the bank of the Ceyhan River. 


Tarsus, Turkey:  We went to visit the antiquities regarding St. Paul, but first we got to enjoy a festival. 


Paul the Apostle was born in Tausus, around the first century AD.  He was an early Christian missionary, and was a writer of much of the New Testament.  This is the ancient stone well and also a foundation that is believed to be the site of St. Paul’s house. 


Adana, Turkey:  We stayed at the Hilton in Adana.  Next to the Hilton on the left was this 4th century Roman bridge.  Next to the Hilton on the right was Turkey’s largest mosque with grand minarets. 


We had a lovely lunch at a restaurant overlooking waterfalls.  Some kind of a festival was going on so our send-off was a spectacular water show complete with fireworks right in front of our hotel. 


So long Turkey.  It was a grand trip!  Kansas here we come. 


Posted May 8, 2014 by marilynfarmer in Travel

Turkey’s Sacred Lands & Ancient Civilizations {Part 1, Days 1-10}   6 comments

Turkey’s Sacred Lands & Ancient Civilizations

{Part 1, Days 1-10:  Istanbul, Van, Ani, Kars, Erzurum & Trabzon}

Mar. 28 – Apr. 16, 2014


Since we had never been to Eastern Turkey, Jim & I selected this trip, “Turkey’s Sacred Lands & Ancient Civilizations”  from Overseas Adventure Travel.  This was our 32nd trip with this company and as usual we were extremely pleased with the itinerary and the learning and discovery experiences.   We have previously been to Turkey but never to Eastern Turkey.  The only repeats on this journey were Istanbul, Uchisar, and Goreme.   We experienced unforgettable historic treasures, relics of ancient civilizations, Biblical history and interaction with the local people.   There were fifteen travelers in our group, and a fine group it was.  We enjoyed our travel friends.  Pictured below is our trip leader, Adnan.   (This map is copied from the Overseas Adventure web site.) 

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Save Money:  If you decide you’d like to go on this or any Overseas Adventure Travel or Grand Circle Travel trip, and you are a first time traveler with them, they will give you $100 off any trip if you mention the name of my travel blog and my customer #000561413.  New travelers instantly receive $100 off the cost of the trip, and I will receive $100 when you depart on your trip. 

{Beginning of Part 1:  Turkey, from Istanbul to Trabzon, Days 1-10}


Istanbul, Turkey:  Our trip began with a short visit to Turkey’s largest city, which was first founded around 660 BC as Byzantium.  The city now known as Istanbul developed to become one of the most significant cities in history.  For nearly sixteen centuries following its re-establishment as Constantinople in 330 AD, it served as the capital of four empires:  the Roman Empire (330-395), the Byzantine Empire (395-1204 and 1261-1453), the Latin Empire (1204-1261), and the Ottoman Empire (1453-1922).  Located on both sides of the Bosphorus, the city bridges Asia and Europe both physically and culturally.  


  Egyptian Obelisk:  It was built around 1500 BC, and stood outside Luxor until Constantine had it brought to Constantinople (Istanbul) around 324 AD.   The obelisk is actually broken and this is only one third of its actual height.  It stands in what was once the Hippodrome.  The Hippodrome was a huge stadium that held up to 100,000 people.


Hagia Sophia:  A UNESCO World Heritage Site.  It was a Christian church for almost 1,000 years, then it served as a mosque after the conquest of Constantinople in 1453 by the Ottomans, who added minarets and fountains.  In 1934 it was designated as a museum.  The marble jar from the 4-3 century BC, was brought from Pergamon in the 1500’s.  The jar was carved from a single block of marble. 


Basilica Cistern:  This vast underground water cistern is a beautiful piece of Byzantine engineering.  It was laid out in 532 AD, mainly to satisfy the growing demands of the Great Palace for water.  The cistern’s roof is heed up by 336 columns, each over 26 ft. high. 


We thought this to be the best baklava we had in TurkeyIt is a rich, sweet pastry made of layers of filo pastry filled with chopped nuts and sweetened and held together with syrup or honey. 


Van, Turkey:  We flew from Istanbul to Van, the one-time capital of the ancient Urartu Empire.  It is located on the eastern edge of Turkey not far from the Iranian border.  The town is set along the southeastern shores of Turkey’s largest lake,  Lake Van.  The town was celebrating an election on the day that we arrived.


Van Herbed Cheese:  It is made out of sheep or cow’s milk and it contains herbs.  It is put in the ground and covered to ripen.  It has been manufactured in this area for more than 200 years. 


Interesting meat shopping.


Next was an interesting lunch.  You just gathered stuff from various dishes and put into your fresh hot baked bread.


I went next door to get the bread.


The delicious breakfast buffet at our hotel in Van.


Lake Van:  A crystal-clear saline lake.  The lake is six times bigger than Utah’s Great Salt Lake.  On a cold, sunny morning we cruised the lake heading to a tiny island to view the Armenian Cathedral.  The snowcapped mountains were beautiful. 


Armenian Church of the Holy Cross:  Built 915-921 and situated on a small island in Lake Van.  The exterior of the medieval church boasts a remarkable series of bas-relief carvings and friezes showing biblical scenes.  The church is now classed as a secular museum in Turkey. 


Cavustepe, Turkey:  This hilltop fortress was used by the Urartian kings during the 8th Century BC.  It was built at the climax of power of the Urartian Empire.  Mehmet Kusman (pictured below), is one of the few people in the world who can speak, read and write Urartian.  Mr. Kusman gave us a tour of the site and also translated inscriptions.   


It had just rained and we slip-slided through mud that seemed it was going to suck us into the ground.  The second photo is the remains of a sacrificial altar. 


The remains of massive sunken storage jars (big round circles on the ground) used to store the harvest from the plains below.  We are looking at grain from the storage jars that is over 2,700 years old. 


Inscriptions that are 2,700 years old and appear as if they were carved yesterday.


The famous Van Cats:  The Van Kedisi, is an unusual breed of cat that has white fur, one green eye and one blue eye, and an affinity for swimming.  They are famous around Lake Van where they dive happily into the lake just for fun.  Their numbers are dwindling and export is strictly forbidden.  We visited the Van Cat sanctuary.


From Van to Kars:  We traveled north through Eastern Anatolia, near the borders of Iran & Armenia.  

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A nice stop along the way was at the Muradiye Waterfalls.   At the waterfalls stop I learned how to properly drink (chai) hot tea the Turkish way.  You hold the very hot, thin glass at the very top with your fingers out…to prevent burning more than your thumbs and index fingers. 


Mt. Ararat:  In the rugged terrain of this area we saw Mt. Ararat in the distance.  The legendary resting place of Noah’s Ark.  It’s Turkey’s highest mountain, rising 16,945 ft.


Some more out the window gazing.


Ishak Pasha Palace:  Perched on a small plateau along stark cliffs, is this fortress like Ottoman-period palace.  Construction was started about 1685 and completed in 1784.  It rises magnificently along the Silk Route close to the Iranian border.  The lavish arrangement of 366 rooms includes a harem with 14 bedrooms, and a small mosque.


Our dear friend Roxanne, back view & front view (looking out the window). 


Looking out the bus window.


April 2.  It’s his birthday, all day.  Happy Birthday to Jim!!


Ani, Turkey:  The ancient city is located on the border from Armenia.  Between 961 & 1045 it was the capital of the medieval Armenian Kingdom that covered much of present day Armenia & eastern Turkey.  Called the “City of 1001 Churches,” Ani stood on various trade routes and its buildings were some of the most technically & artistically advanced structures in the world.  At its height, Ani had a population of 100,000-200,000 people and was the rival of Constantinople, Baghdad and Damascus. 


Ani was sacked by the Turks in 1064, and razed by an earthquake in 1319.


The Citadel in the distant center of the picture below is the oldest part of Ani and housed most of its residents until 961.  The Menucehr Mosque is in the next photo. 


The view from the Menucehr Mosque shows the Silk Road of long ago.  In the first photo you can see the ruins of the ancient bridge.  In the second photo you can see how the Silk Road snaked its way up the hill into Ani.  Today this river is the border between Turkey & Armenia. 


This is what remains of the Silk Road as it makes its way up from the river and into Ani.  In the next photo, as you look past the ancient church on the hill (center of the picture) is Armenia. 


Ani Cathedral:  It’s still intact, although the dome on the top has collapsed.  The construction on the church was begun in 989.  It is 100 ft. by 65 ft. and really seemed big inside.  The dome had been supported on four piers of clustered columns, but the 1319 earthquake took it down. 


The Church of St. Gregory:  The church, finished in 1215, is the best-preserved monument at Ani. 


Up until 2004, due to its position in a sensitive border area, the Turkish government required a special permit and prohibited visitors from bringing cameras to this extraordinary ghost city.  Sure glad those restrictions have been lifted and we got to see this splendid ghost town.


Always time for chai, right?


We enjoyed a lovely lunch with a family that lived out in the country near Kars. 


The man of the house was a farmer and Jim enjoyed seeing his tractor.  The delicious bread was baked in this pit.


As we were ready to leave the hotel in Kars I discovered new friends.  The girls were so excited to talk to an American.  However, it appears that I may have been equally pleased.  Then came the sheep. 


Kars to Erzurum:  We drove through some pretty countryside on our way from Kars to Erzurum. 

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There’s obviously always time for tea….especially if you are a Turkish man.


Erzurum:  Set high on a plateau and surrounded by mountains, the town is a winter sports mecca complete with ski trails.  These are pictures of our hotel and area where we stayed the night.  Lovely buffet dinner that evening with live entertainment. 


Erzurum to Trabzon:  Next we journeyed by coach to Trabzon.

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Views out the bus window.


Lunch at the truck stop left much to be desired.  The kids were in a hurry to eat, they could have had mine.  We chose what we wanted out of these pots. 


A rather pretty ride.


Sumela Monastery:  The monastery sits high up on the cliffs of Mt. Mela, in a national park near Trabzon.  It was founded in 386 AD by two Greek monks after discovering a miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary in a cave on the mountain.  The monastery has been rebuilt several times and restoration continues.


We first took a scenic ride in a van through the national park.


The Monastery is to the left of my head, perched on the side of the cliff.


We walked the winding forest path up to the monastery.


Inside the Monastery.


The Rock Church of Sumela Monastery.  It was a cave that was converted to a church. 


The inner and outer walls of the Rock Church and the walls of the adjacent chapel are decorated with frescoes.  The main subject of the frescoes are biblical scenes telling the story of Christ and the Virgin Mary. 


Leaving the Monastery. 


Trabzon:  It’s situated along Turkey’s Black Sea Coast.  After a scenic overlook of the city, we visited Aya Sofya Mosque.  It is a former Byzantine-era cathedral built in 1577.  The frescoes depicting scenes from the Old Testament are supposed to be among the finest in Turkey.   


Antiquities anywhere & everywhere.


Continued with Part 2 on next blog:  Turkey’s Sacred Lands & Ancient Civilizations, Part 2, Days 11-20


Posted May 8, 2014 by marilynfarmer in Travel

Norway: A Voyage of the Northern Lights   16 comments


Norway:  A Voyage of the Northern Lights

Dec. 4 – 18, 2013


Jim & I have wondered what it would be like to be in the northern most town in the world during some of the shortest days of the year.  We have wondered what it would be like north of the Arctic Circle for almost a week in the dead of winter.  We have wondered what it would be like to have less than 2 hours of “twilight” daily.  We have wondered what it would be like to see the Northern Lights.  We have wondered what it would be like to cruise along the 1,560 miles of the Norwegian coastline, then turn around and go back the other way.  However, we hadn’t wondered what it would be like to be in Hurricane force winds of 115 mph while cruising above the Arctic Circle.  Well, we found the answers to all these quandaries on our trip with Vantage Deluxe World Travel aboard the Hurtigruten’s MS Nordkapp.  The trip was exciting and delightful!


 The Grand Norwegian Coastal Voyage, was just that….grand.  Our 15 day trip began with a day and night in Bergen, Norway.  Then we boarded the MS Nordkapp for a complete 11-night north and south voyage, with over 30 ports of call along the 1,560 miles of the Norwegian coastline.  After returning back to Bergen, we spent another night in the lovely town before flying home just in time for Christmas.  Karin was our excellent tour director, and she made sure our trip was perfect.  

Bergen, Norway:  Founded in 1070, Bergen has a unique harbor setting and ancient medieval streets, plus a modern vibrant city.  The Greater Bergen Region had a population of 398,800, making Bergen the second-largest city in Norway.  It is ideally located on the Western coast, surrounded by 7 mountains, in the middle of Fjord Norway, with easy access to the Norwegian fjords.  The waterfront is really the heart of Bergen, with the Fish Market and the picturesque old wooden Bryggen wharf – a UNESCO World Heritage site. 


To me the highlight of Bergen is the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Bryggen.  Bryggen, (Norwegian for the Wharf), is a series of Hanseatic commercial buildings (warehouses) lining the eastern side of the fjord coming into Bergen.  In the early days  when the town developed into an important trading center, the Hanseatic merchants filled these warehouses with goods, particularly fish from northern Norway, and cereal from Europe.  Some 62 buildings remain of this former townscape.  Today, the Bryggen houses tourist, souvenir, and gift shops, in addition to restaurants, pubs and museums.


Our outstandingly located hotel, the Radisson Blu Royal Hotel was right in the scenic Bryggen UNESCO historic area.  Coming out from the hotel was the harbor, and turning left was the historic warehouse area. 


Karin suggested we take the Funicular and see the beautiful snow covered city from above.  A great idea!  The starting point of the the Funicular is centrally located, just a short walk from our hotel. The Funicular takes you to the top of mount Floyen, offering a marvelous view of the city. 


To the fish market we did go. 


Next it was time for a nice stroll in the driving snow.


Saw lots of places with Lutefisk on the menu.  Remembering the Lutefisk that my family helped prepare for our churches annual “Lutefisk Supper” at Vilas Lutheran church in Kansas.


Edvard Hagerup Grieg is a famous Norwegian composer and pianist.  We toured the picturesque wooden villa “Troldhaugen”, which was Nina and Edvard Grieg’s home, and built in 1885. The villa is located in the outskirts of Bergen, surrounded by a garden by the Nordasvannet lake. The couple lived there the last 22 summers of Edvard Grieg’s life. Troldhaugen became a museum in May 1928.  (I recognize The Hall of the Mountain King by Grieg.)


The boarded a Hurtigruten Ship, the MS Nordkapp:  (I copied the following info & the ship picture from the Hurtigruten web site.)

Hurtigruten’s Norwegian Coastal Voyage along the scenic coast and fjords of Norway has often been praised as being one of the  most beautiful voyages in the world.  The service was founded 120 years ago as a way of ferrying passengers and supplies between the isolated communities along the rugged coastline.  It is still considered a “working” ship.  With daily departures, the Hurtigruten journey begins in Bergen and travels north across the Arctic Circle and beyond as it meanders through the dramatic splendours of the Norwegian coast. As you weave in and out of narrow inlets, you will sail along some of the world’s most beautiful coastline, nearly always in sight of land, and discover what makes this voyage unique.


  Some ports of call would only be a few minutes, while supplies and passengers were quickly loaded and unloaded.  Other times we were docked long enough to walk around town.  The ship was usually docked on main street of the small towns so it was easy to get out and about.  Sometimes we were at a port of call for a few hours and had plenty of time to look around.  We were very pleased with the ship, crew and meals.  The following are pictures inside the ship.

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Dec. 7, 2013, the first morning aboard the ship, cruising, somewhere between Maley & Torvik.  That is a little house on the little island below.  Talk about a long way from Walmart. 


A quick stop at Maley to unload supplies and off we went. 


Jim is standing in front of our cabin window.  While we were out on our deck we noticed this little farm.  I can’t imagine living so remotely. 


Alesund, Norway:  After it was destroyed by fire in 1904, this pretty little town was rebuilt in the fashionable Art Nouveau style of the era.  Alesund has a population of approximately 40,000.  The town in surrounded by water.  I think it was the prettiest town that we visited. 


Trondheim:  Was founded in 997.  It is Norway’s third largest city with a population of almost 180,000.  A coach tour of the city was provided.  We visited a viewpoint with a great view of the city.  We saw the Nidaros Cathedral which is the religious center of Norway.  The best thing was the Old Town Draw Bridge of Trondheim which was built in 1684.

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Cruising between Trondheim & Rorvik on Dec. 8, 2013:  The time as per my camera on the first photo is 2:09 pm and the sun is setting.  The days are definitely getting shorter.  The second photo is the  Lighthouse Kjeungskuaer which was built in 1880.


Rorvik:  Located approximately 120 miles north of the city of Trondheim.   The 430 acre village has a population (2011) of 2,721. 


Ornes, Norway:  Dec. 9, 2013, 9:35 a.m., a 30 minute stop for loading & unloading supplies.  Ornes is a port of call along the Hurtigruten ferry route between Nesna and Bodø. The 450-acre village has a population (2011) of 1,623.


Crossed the Arctic Circle around 7:20 this morning, Dec. 9, 2013.   This is the little lighted marker that marks the spot.

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Standing on the deck in front of our cabin window and looking at the small farms on the shoreline.   We are now cruising within the Arctic Circle. 


Crossing the Arctic Circle Ceremony:  If you let them pour ice & water down your neck you could have a free shot of liquor.  I wasn’t that thirsty. haha


 The route map with a focus on the Arctic Circle area. 


Boda, Norway:  The town lies just north of the Arctic Circle and has a population of approximately 50,000.  It is the second-largest town in North Norway.   It was completely rebuilt after WWII.  The sun is not visible from the city from early December to early January.  Thus the twilight.  We were in Boda for 2 1/2 hours. 


As per the lighted sign by the Christmas tree it was –4C (28 degrees) and 1:15 p.m.  We saw lots of ladies using sleds (below) just as we would use a skate board.  Pretty nifty way to get around on solid ice. 


Svolvaer, Norway:  This 540-acre town has a population (2011) of 4,185.  We made a one hour stop here.  It was 3:30 in the afternoon when we arrived and completely dark. 


We saw the Northern Lights.  (Definition) An aurora is a natural light display in the sky particularly in the high latitude (Arctic and Antarctic) regions, caused by the collision of energetic charged particles with atoms in the high altitude atmosphere.   Thank you, to a couple of friends in our group for sharing these pictures.  It was a struggle getting decent photos considering the rocking & rolling of the ship.  The Northern Lights were actually spotted twice by some people and three times by others. 

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The following group of Northern Lights photos were taken in Sweden (on land) the same night that we saw the Aurora from the ship.  The people that took them were later on our ship and shared them with members of our group.  Aren’t they beautiful?

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Finnsnes, Norway:  The municipality is well provided with kindergartens, primary and secondary level schools, and studies on university level   Fishing and agriculture is still very important, and fish farming is of increasing importance for the employment of people.  The population of Finnsnes in 2012 was 4,250.  It was a 30 minute stop at 11:15 in the morning.  It was a twilight, with snow, type of morning. 


  Tromso, Norway:  Tromso describes itself as being the Paris of the North.  It is familiar to filmgoers as the starting point for so many Polar expeditions.  It is northern Norway’s largest city with approximately 73,000 inhabitants (2012).  We did a coach tour of Tromso going to the Tromso Museum for “Embrace the Aurora”, and then visited the Arctic Cathedral.  Our ship docked in the city center about 3 p.m. and were there about 4 hours.

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 Honningsvag, Norway:  Hammerfest claims to be the northernmost city in the world, although the title is disputed by Honningsvåg, Norway.  Even though Honningsvag is located at the northernmost extreme of Europe, it has a subarctic climate, thanks to the Gulf Stream.  The 300 acre town has a population (2012) of 2,436.  A young lady from the local newspaper took Bill, Jim & my picture and was surprised to learn that we were from Tenn. & Ks.   FYI:  We were walking around Honningsvag about noon.  Please note, that it is completely dark.  


King Crab from the area.   Demand is high for the delicacy and it has long been the most lucrative harvest in the Norwegian fishing industry.


Storm Certificate:  “It is hereby announced that the Passenger…Marilyn Farmer (Jim got a certificate also)… was on board the MS “Nordkapp” during a storm, along the coast of Finnmark, with winds up to 115 m.p.h. or 54m/sec on December 11, 2013.”  What a ride at 3 o’clock in the morning.  Can’t say that we’ve even been in a hurricane before, and don’t care to be in one again.  The google map below shows the approximate location of our scary hurricane ride. 

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Kirkenes, Norway:  Kirkenes is located in the extreme northeastern part of Norway.  The 510-acre town has a population (2012) of 3,444.  When the neighboring suburban villages of Hesseng, Sandnes, and Bjørnevatn are all included with Kirkenes, the urban area reaches a total population of almost 8,000 people.  We left Kirkenes by coach and drove to the Russian Border, it was about a 30 minute drive.  We were curious about the 4 back-packers who were hiking across the frozen lake to the border. 


The Russian Border crossing complete with a sled to play with and an outdoor toilet.  We were out and about from around 9:30 a.m. until noon.  It was a clear twilight day, no sun of course in the Arctic Circle area. 

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During the occupation of Norway by Nazi Germany, Kirkenes was one of the many bases for the German’s.  Reportedly, Kirkenes is second after Malta on a list of European towns experiencing air-raid alarms and attacks, with more than 1,000 alarms and 320 air attacks.  Then, the town was taken over by the Red Army on Oct. 25, 1944 when the German Wehrmacht was pushed out and fled the area after having destroyed most of the remaining infrastructure.

Bjornevatn, Norway:  This is a memorial to the 2,500 people took shelter in the mines in 1945 for 2 months, until the Russians liberated the area from the Germans. 


Hammerfest, Norway:  Hammerfest, population 9,000, claims to be the northernmost city in the world, although the title is disputed by Honningsvag, Norway.   The validity of the claim depends upon one’s definition of a city; although Hammerfest is further south than Honningsvag it has a population over 5,000, which is required by Norwegian law to achieve town status.  Honningsvag, population about 2,500 is actually the northernmost in Norway. Barrow, Alaska, population 4,000, is further north than both the Norwegian towns, but does not lay claim to the title of northernmost town.

However, I will say as per this Bing Map is appears that Honningsvag, Norway is further north than Hammerfest, Norway, regardless of the population.  But, I have a photo of the “Northern Most Town in the World” sign from Hammerfest. 

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Hammerfest:  Dec. 13, 2013.   We arrived around 10 in the morning, and had about 3 hours to explore the town.  It would snow like crazy for awhile then quit for awhile. 


Built in 1961, Hammerfest Church is the main parish church in Hammerfest.


Tradition in Norway is to decorate with lots of red hearts at Christmas.


Even though it is one of the northern most towns in the world it is largely ice-free because of the offshore Gulf Stream. 


We decided to have a donut.  They seemed pretty dry for as expensive as they were. 


Stokmarknes, Norway:  At lot of people getting on and off the ship in Stokmarknes.  This town, population 3,500, is the birthplace of the Hurtigruten shipping company.  We visited the Hurtigruten Museum to explore its history.  The first Hertigruten voyage departed in 1893.The original MS Finnmarken, dating back to the 1950’s, rests in dry dock here and we toured it as part of the museum.  We were there from about 2 – 3:30 p.m. (completely dark.) 


Svolvaer, Norway:    This 540-acre town has a massive fishing industry and a population (2011) of 4,185.  Jim visited the WWII Museum and I walked around with some others.  I didn’t sit in the lighted ice chair very long!


Dec. 15, 2013, we crossed the Arctic Circle again, this time headed in a southerly direction.  The ceremony was spoonful of cod liver oil, and a shot of wine.  The best part, was we got to keep the neat spoons the oil was in. 


Our happy group of 32 Vantage Travelers, along with our great tour leader, Karin.

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Bergen, Norway:  Back to Bergen again, and this time without snow.  Pizza with friends, and a last look at the pretty town all lighted for Christmas.


A wonderful time, with memories galore!!

Posted January 4, 2014 by marilynfarmer in Travel

Canadian Maritimes in the Fall   11 comments

Canadian Maritimes in the Fall

News Brunswick, Prince Edward Island & Nova Scotia

Oct. 10- 19, 2013


Since we’ve always heard that Nova Scotia, Canada, and the Canadian Maritimes is a beautiful place to see; Jim & I and our friends, Mark & Karen decided to find out for ourselves.  We went in mid-October and couldn’t have picked a better time…..the fall colors were outstanding!   The Canadian Maritimes, is a region of Eastern Canada consisting of three provinces, New Brunswick,  Prince Edward Island and Nova Scotia. {The map below is copied from: gocanada.about.com}

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We went with Caravan Tours (Caravan.com) and were very pleased with the itinerary, and our tour director, John.  We flew into Halifax, Nova Scotia and spent the first night near the airport.  The next morning we drove by coach to New Brunswick where we saw the Hopewell Cape and the Bay of Fundy.  We drove on to Prince Edward Island and spent the next two nights at a Country Inn and toured that area.  Cheticamp on Prince Edward Island was our next destination with a two night stay.  Then it was on to the Baddeck area for two nights.  We spent our last two nights in Halifax at a great hotel along the boardwalk overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.  

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New Brunswick:  The boundary lines in New Brunswick between Canada and the United States were established in the 1842 Ashburton-Webster Treaty, after the Aroostook War (the bloodless cold-war between the United States and Canada) ended peacefully.  New Brunswick is one of Canada’s three Maritime provinces and is the only province in the Canadian federation that is constitutionally bilingual (English-French).  New Brunswick is a relatively sparsely populated province, with considerable forests forming the main body. The core of the province is virtually uninhabited, with most of the population being on the Eastern, Western, and Southern coastlines.

Nova Scotia to New Brunswick:  On our morning drive from Nova Scotia to New Brunswick, we crossed rivers, streams and marshlands that are connected to the Fundy tides. 


Flowerpot Rocks at Hopewell Cape, New Brunswick:  The rocks stand between 40-70 feet tall.  These formations have been caused by tidal erosion.  The Fundy Tides are the highest on earth and rise and fall an astonishing 50 feet, with an average change of 6 to 8 feet per hour.  The Fundy Tides are created twice each day when one-hundred-billion tons of water flow into the Bay of Fundy. 


The following sign is located in front of the stairs that go down to the beach.  It indicates in French & English what time the “high tide” will arrive.  The clock indicates that we were there at 11:37 and “To avoid being trapped by the rising tide YOU MUST return to the stairs by the time shown here….which was 3:15.”


We were there during low tide.  Below is a photo of a picture that shows what this area looks like turning “high tide”.  The next picture features Mark & Karen.  They are standing under the same arch as shown in the “high tide” picture where the first canoe is ready to go under the arch.  As you can see, if it was high tide the water would be over their heads.     


We walked all along the beach and enjoyed the interesting rock formations that have occurred due to the tidal activity. 


The Fundy Tides overpower the rivers flowing into the Bay of Fundy and reverse their direction two times a day.


Confederation Bridge:  We traveled over the 8 mile Confederation Bridge which links New Brunswick to Prince Edward Island.  The bridge is a multi-span beam bridge with a post-tensioned concrete box girder structure.  Most of the curved bridge is about 130 feet above water, with a 197 foot navigation span to permit ship traffic.  The bridge rests on 62 piers, of which the 44 main piers are 820 feet apart.  The bridge is a two-lane highway toll bridge, 36 feet wide with a speed limit of 50 mph.  It takes about 12 minutes to cross the bridge. 


Just after crossing the Confederation Bridge was a cute shopping area.  A bridge segment is on display here.  And… Jim thinks he has found “his” ice cream!

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Prince Edward Island:  It is located east of New Brunswick, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence.  The island’s landscape is a combination of rolling hills, woods, reddish white sand beaches, ocean coves and the famous red soil, which adds to it’s natural beauty.  The smaller, rural communities as well as the towns and villages throughout the province, retain a slower-paced, old-world flavor.

We stayed for two nights near (but not at) the National Seashore at a Country Inn.  The coastline of Prince Edward Island has a combination of long beaches, dunes, red sandstone cliffs, salt water marshes, and numerous bays and harbors.  This is the coast of Prince Edward Island near Cavendish.


Anne of Green Gables (1908), Prince Edward Island:  We visited the Anne of Green Gables house in Cavendish.  We strolled through Lover’s Lane and other settings from the literary classic.  The author, Lucy Maud Montgomery drew inspiration from the land during the late Victorian Era for her classic novel, Ann of Green Gables.  You should read some of the series of Anne of Green Gables, I am.  Very pleasant reading. 


A stroll down “Anne of Green Gables” lover’s lane.


 Let me assure you…there was nothing simple about Karen & I climbing into the carriage for our photo!


North Rustico, Prince Edward Island:  A community by the sea.  It was fun for these Kansas folks to see a fishing village and learn about lobster fishing.  And….that evening we had lobster for supper. 


St. Augustine Catholic Church, Farmers’ Bank of Rustico Museum & Doucet House, Prince Edward Island:  The oldest church on this island was built in 1838.   We also enjoyed seeing one of the old original homes of the area (Doucet House).  The museum in the old sandstone building provided an interesting review of the old local banking history in PEI. 


Potatoes:  Potatoes are Prince Edward Island’s single largest agricultural commodity in terms of farm cash receipts.  PEI potatoes are processed into frozen potato products and chips. They are also supplied to the fresh table market in eastern Canada, the United States, and overseas. Prince Edward Island seed potatoes are shipped across Canada and around the world to other potato producing regions.  We saw lots of potato fields and potato processors. 

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Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island:  It is both the largest city and the provincial capital of Prince Edward Island, it was designated as a city in 1886.


One has to eat lobster in Nova Scotia!


Cape Breton Island: The island is located east-northeast of the mainland of Nova Scotia with its northern and western coasts fronting on the Gulf of St. Lawrence.  The island accounts for 18.7% of the total area of Nova Scotia.  It is artificially connected to mainland Nova Scotia by the 4,544 ft. long rock-fill Canso Causeway. 

We went by ferry from Prince Edward island back to Nova Scotia.  Then we continued on by coach to Cape Breton Island. 


It was a pretty ride on Cape Breton Island en-route to Cheticamp.

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Cheticamp:  Is a busy fishing village in Cape Breton, Nova Scotia, with a thriving Acadian culture.  The community has almost 4,000 residents, a large number of whom are Acadians and speak French natively, as well as English.  Music has always been a very important component of Acadian life in Chéticamp.  Both evenings we were there we enjoyed listening to the lively Acadian music.   

Whale Watch:  Well…while in Cheticamp, we boarded a boat and did a whale watch.  What can I say?  It was cold, it was wet, it was long, and we caught a brief glimpse of a whale….I think.  Oh well, we’ve been on a whale watch in Nova Scotia. 


Elizabeth LaFort Museum of Hooked Rug & Home Life, Cheticamp, Cape Breton Island:  Born in 1914, Elizabeth LeFort learned to hook rugs at a very young age. In her early twenties, she was already hooking landscapes based on photos or illustrations that appealed to her.  She made hundreds of tapestries in a large variety of subjects including pastoral scenes, birds, animals and floral motifs.  She also reproduced photographs, and religious paintings. 

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Cabot Trail, Cape Breton Island:  This world-famous scenic highway, runs along parts of the coastal borders on both sides of the park and crosses the highlands.  At the western entrance of the park is the Acadian village of Cheticamp on the Gulf of Saint Lawrence and a park information center.  On the eastern side of the park are the beaches at Ingonish on the Atlantic Ocean.  In between are mountains, valleys, forests, waterfalls, rocky coastlines and a tundra-like plateau know as the Cape Breton Highlands.  This map copied from Parks Canada shows the route that we drove on the Cabot Trail, through Cape Breton Highlands National Park.

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We had the privilege of driving the first part of the trail twice.  These are pictures of our trip into the park on the first day in partly sunny lovely weather.  The next morning when we headed out it was foggy, so we had a diversified view of the lovely area.  


Cabot Trail, Cape Breton National Park:  As we began our drive early the next morning it was foggy, but then it lifted and was a beautiful day as the scenery unfolded on our breathtaking journey on the Cabot Trail in Cape Breton National Park.  It is approximately 80 miles from Cheticamp to the Ingonish Beach area. 


Pleasant Bay, located at the northwest part of the trail just before we headed east across the mountains. 


Going generally in a eastward direction across the trail.


Now we are headed in a southerly direction towards Ingonish. 


Keltic Lodge:  After a delightful morning on the Cabot Trail, lunch was included at the Keltic Lodge near Ingonish.

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Driving from Ingonish to Baddeck on Cape Breton Island.


Alexander Graham Bell Museum, Baddeck, Cape Breton Island:     Was designated a National Historic Site of Canada in 1952.  The exhibit complex houses models, replicas, photo displays, artifacts and films describing the fascinating life and work of Alexander Graham Bell.  He invented a lot more than I realized.  


Bell’s Summer Home:  Alexander Graham Bell, compelled by the beauty of Baddeck, chose this area as his summer home.  Looking across the bay from Bell’s museum, this is a photo we zoomed  of Bell’s mansion.



Baddeck, Cape Breton Island:  Situated in the heart of Cape Breton Island, Baddeck is considered to be the beginning and end of the world famous Cabot Trail.  Stretching along the shores of the Bras d’Or Lakes, Baddeck is a charming, quaint little town.  We stayed here for two nights. 


Gisele’s Country Inn:  Our hotel in Baddeck and another nice included meal.  Yes, after the picture taking, Karen did eat it. 


Fortress of Louisbourg:  A National Historic Site of Canada and the location of a one-quarter partial reconstruction of an 18th-century French fortress at Louisbourg on Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia.  Its two sieges, especially that of 1758, were turning points in the Anglo-French struggle for what today is Canada.


Driving from Louisbourg to Baddeck we saw another pretty lighthouse and a ferry crossing. 


  Nova Scotia (New Scotland):  We returned to mainland Nova Scotia for the final two nights of our trip.  Nova Scotia is one of Canada’s three Maritime provinces and is the most populous province with nearly one million inhabitants.  It has over 4,600 miles of coastline.  Nowhere in Nova Scotia is more than 42 miles from the ocean.  The first settlers were the Micmac Indians, and after that Nova Scotia was settled primarily by the French, English, Scottish and Irish.

Peggy’s Point Lighthouse:  Before arriving in Halifax we stopped at the little fishing village of Peggy’s Cove.  This lighthouse, situated on an extensive granite outcrop, is said to be one of the most-photographed structures in Atlantic Canada and one of the most recognizable lighthouses in the world. The original lighthouse was built in 1868, but replaced by this one in 1914.  It is still operated by the Canadian Coast Guard. 


 Peggy’s Cove:  Is primarily a tourist attraction, although its inhabitants still fish for lobster, and the community maintains a rustic undeveloped appearance.


Halifax, Nova Scotia:    It’s the provincial capital and most populous province of the four in Atlantic Canada.  We stayed at the very nice Marriott Habourfront.  It was located on the boardwalk of Halifax. 


Maritime Museum of the Atlantic:  The museum has a collection of over 30,000 artifacts including 70 small craft and a steamship.


  CSS Acadia:  We toured this steamship, which is part of the museum.  It is a 180 foot steam-powered hydrographic survey ship launched in 1913.


 Ship Chandlery:  A ship chandler is a retail dealer who specializes in supplies or equipment for ships.  This restored Ship Chandlery circa 1900 was located in the museum.  I understood that it’s in the original store front which the museum purchased and added to it’s artifacts. 


And I bid you farewell with the setting of the sun over one last lighthouse in Nova Scotia!  It was a indeed fun trip with good friends!


Posted November 5, 2013 by marilynfarmer in Travel


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